Monday 13 April 2009

Dirkyburgers

The sunshine at the weekend encouraged us to get the BBQ out for the first time this year. And boy how we've missed it. We were over in Bridge of Weir seeing friends, so I made some of my burgers that always seem to go down a treat. They're quick and easy to make - just prepare in advance as an overnight chill in the fridge helps them to keep their shape and gives the flavours more time to get to know each other.

Shopping list for 10 medium-size burgers: 1Kg organic minced beef (Whitmuir is simply the best - it's what we stock at Earthy); one slice of day old bread; two good handfuls of chopped herbs of your choice (I tend to use basil and coriander, but thyme or parsley are good too - whatever is at its best and in season); a good handful (around 50g) grated parmesan; 1 tsp salt and a few twists of black pepper.

Method: Blitz the bread in a food processor, until well crumbed; add the herbs, salt, pepper and cheese and blitz again. Put the minced beef in a large bowl and add the herby breadcrumbs and mix really well with your hands. Form the burgers to the size you like them - you should get at least 10 good sized burgers from this mixture. Wrap individually in cling film to hold their shape and place in the fridge - preferably overnight. Get the BBQ nice and hot, then cook the burgers to your liking. Serve in a bun with condiments of your choice.

You can also try this recipe replacing the beef mince with with minced turkey, lamb or a mixture of veal and pork mince (great with lemon thyme). Chilli can also be added to the breadcrumb mix to add some zing. Go on, get your BBQ out, chill some rose and dig-in.

Friday 3 April 2009

Spanish Tortilla

This is an authentic Spanish Tortilla recipe - as taught to me by my good friends from Mardid, Carlos & Alberto. We had quite a few laughs the first time I tried it. There are literally thousands of different recipes for this seemingly simple dish, so try out some variations and additions - like using garlic-infused oil, or adding herbs, chargrilled peppers or chorizo to the mix. Slow cooking is essential, so it's not a quick dish to prepare - you simply can't rush a good tortilla. This recipe feeds 6 people as a main course, or double that if you're having a Spanish-themed meal with more tapas. Before you start, make sure you have a good non-stick pan - around 7"- 8" in diameter - and a large plate that's a good couple of inches wider.

Ingredients: 6 very fresh organic medium eggs; 3 medium-sized potatoes; 2 large onions; 200ml olive oil; salt and a good grind of black pepper.

Method: Finely slice the onions and peel and cube the potatoes into 1" x 1/2" chunks, drying off well in a dish towel. Pour the oil into a bowl and add the onions and potatoes, mixing them together well. It seems like a lot of oil, but you can collect the drained oil at the end of cooking and re-use it for future tortillas - the Spanish even have special ceramic pots for this purpose. Place a large frying pan on the hob, on a low heat and add the potatoes/onion mixture along with all the oil. The oil should cover the potatoes and onions - if it doesn't, add some more. Leave to cook for around 30-35 minutes. The heat should be low enough for the mixture not to brown. Test the potatoes with a sharp knife, and if they're cooked, remove the mixture from the pan, straining off the oil (reserving it). Leave to cool a little. In a seperate bowl lightly whisk the eggs with the salt and pepper. Then tip in the potatoes/onions and mix well together. Place a small drizzle of the reserved oil into an 7"- 8" non-stick frying pan and tip in the eggy mixture over a low heat. Leave for a good 5 minutes. Now the tricky (fun) bit. Remove the pan from the heat - best to do this next bit over the sink, just in case! Lay a large plate (at least 10" in diameter, so it overlaps the frying pan) upside down over the top of the pan. Holding the pan handle firmly with one hand and the plate in place with the other, spin the pan round quickly so the contents fall flat out from the pan onto the plate (and not into the sink or onto the floor). Place the pan back on the hob and carefully slide the tortilla, runny-side down, back into the pan, to cook the other side. This may take a little practise - hence the advice about spinning it over the sink. Once perfected though, it makes for far more impressive kitchen theatre than simply flipping pancakes. After 5 more minutes, repeat this process - it will be easier the 2nd time as the tortilla should be holding its shape better - and practise makes perfect. Keep repeating until the tortilla is solid to the touch in the centre and cooked through. Finally, flip the tortilla out onto a serving plate and leave to cool. Best served at room temperature, al-fresco, with a mixed salad, some crusty bread and a glass of chilled white Rioja. Salud!

Rhubarb Crumble

Just the word crumble makes me weak at the knees. It’s one of those puds that satisfies on every level - sweet, fruity, cakey and warming - total comfort food. In my book rhubarb, without doubt, makes the best crumble.

Ingredients (for 6 greedy people): 2lbs (900g) of organic rhubarb; 5oz (125g) unrefined caster sugar; grated rind and juice of one organic (unwaxed) blood orange; 4oz (150g) organic plain flour; 2oz (50g) jumbo oat flakes; 3oz (75g) butter.

Method: Wash the rhubarb and remove the bottom of the stems. Chop into large chunks and stew lightly in a saucepan for a couple of minutes. Add half the sugar to the rhubarb and continue to stew until just tender (but not mushy). Drain, reserving the juice, and place in the bottom of a large pie dish. Put the juices back on the heat, add the orange zest/juice and reduce until rich and syrupy and pour over the rhubarb. Blitz the flour, oatmeal, butter and remaining sugar in a processor until it forms coarse crumbs. Pour this over the rhubarb and pop in a pre-heated oven 180oC (gas mark 4) for 35-45 minutes until the top is golden brown. Serve with cream, Greek yoghurt or good, old-fashioned custard. Crumble heaven.

Hot smoked salmon quiche

A deliciously more-ish quiche that makes a great lunch or supper. Serve warm with some crusty bread and a big green salad. Serves 6.

Shopping list for the pastry: 8oz (225g) plain flour (white, wholemeal, spelt or a gluten-free pastry flour); 5oz (150g) butter; a small handful of finely grated parmesan; 1 tps finely grated lemon rind; 1 organic egg, a pinch of salt and a little milk (if required).

Shopping list for the filling: 1 pack of Hot Smoked Scottish Salmon; 6 Phantassie organic eggs; 200g (a small tub) of organic Creme Fraiche or double cream; a handful each of finely chopped fresh Sorrel and parmesan cheese; a few turns of freshly-ground black pepper.

Method: First of all make the pastry. Sieve the salt and flour into a bowl - If using a wholemeal flour, I suggest discarding the larger grains left in the sieve, as these can make the pastry heavy and too biscuity - it all depends on how you like your pastry. Add the grated lemon zest and parmesan and mix well. Dice the (cold) butter into small cubes and add to the flour. With cold hands, rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips for a few minutes, until it resembles course breadcrumbs. Beat the egg and add, mixing well through. This should form a ‘dough’. If it’s still too dry, add some milk, a dribble at a time, until the mixture comes together. Roll into a ball, seal with cling film and place in the fridge for at least 45 minutes. In the meantime, grease a 12” flan dish with a little melted butter, and cut a piece of parchment or baking paper large enough to place into the dish, covering the sides. Heat the oven to 180oC (gas mark 4).

When the dough has chilled, roll it out onto a lightly-floured worktop until around 5mm thick and large enough to fully line the flan dish, including the sides. When the pastry is in the dish, prick it with a fork all over, then cover it with the parchment paper and ‘weigh it down’ with some baking beans (dried beans are fine for this and can stored and re-used for future blind baking). Place the dish in the oven for 10-12 minutes, then remove the parchment paper/beans, brush the base of the pastry with a little more beaten egg (to seal the fork holes) and bake for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little. Turn the oven up to 200oC (gas mark 6).

To make the filling, break the eggs into a bowl and add the creme fraiche or cream and pepper, beating them together well with a whisk. Add the grated parmesan and herbs and mix well through. Remove the hot smoked salmon from its skin and flake over the base of the baked pastry. Pour over the egg mixture and place in the oven. After 5 minutes, turn the oven down again to 180oC (gas mark 4) and cook for a further 30-35 minutes, until the egg mixture is cooked through, but is still light and springy. When cooked, remove the quiche from the oven and leave to cool a little. Serve just warm, as this allows the flavours to mix well and it’s much tastier than hot.

Patricia’s wild garlic pesto

Patricia - my co-Director at Earthy, who also owns Phantassie Organic Farm in East Lothian - has masses of wild garlic growing in the woods on the farm. I've spent many a happy hour helping to collect them on warm spring afternoons - the air heavy with their scent. Garlic leaves have a subtle garlic taste when eaten raw - it's afterwards that you get the full-on hit of their odour! This is a quick and easy dish that’s full of spring freshness. The wild garlic is used in place of basil/garlic but you could use a mixture of fresh basil and garlic leaves, to make it even more subtle. You could also leave out the nuts or add black olives. This recipe is just a guide - experiment yourself to find one that you love.

Shopping List (enough for 4 servings): 2oz (50g) pack of Phantassie wild garlic leaves, washed and bigger stalks removed; 4oz (100g) pistachio or pinenuts; 2 oz (50g) finely grated parmesan; 4 tbs extra virgin olive oil; a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice; a couple of pinches of sea salt.

Method: Pop all of the ingredients into a food blender and blitz for a few seconds. Add more olive oil if the mixture is too dry. Pour over cooked pasta of your choice (linguine or spaghetti works well) and serve with some lovely organic leaves and a glass of full-bodied red wine.

Asparagus tips

Fresh asparagus is one of Spring’s great culinary delights. It’s well worth waiting for locally-grown varieties as it really needs to be eaten as quickly as possible after it’s been cut, so the less distance it’s travelled the better. Asparagus has a short growing season, so make the most of it while it’s around. Try chargrilling it and serving with a squeeze of lemon juice and some good olive oil. Or lightly steam it, ideally upright, so the stems get the brunt of the cooking. Then dip into softly boiled eggs. Alternatively, serve with a parma or serrano ham coat with this home made Hollandaise Sauce. A quick, simple and delicious lunch or light supper.

Shopping list (enough for 4 people):
2 organic eggs (yolks only); 4oz (100g) butter - diced into small cubes; a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice; 1 tbs cold water. A tsp or two of finely chopped sorrel (optional).

Method: Put the egg yolks in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water on a low heat. The water needs to be hot but not boiling. Add the water and whisk. Add the butter, one cube at a time, whisking as you go. If the sauce looks too thick, remove from the heat and add a little more water, whisking well. Finally add the lemon juice and sorrel (if using) and serve immediately.