Monday 31 August 2009

Roast Venison

With autumn comes great game. And venison is one of my favourites. It's lean, rich and if cooked correctly, it's beautifully tender. Here's my favourite way of cooking a venison loin / fillet.

Ingredients (for 4 people): 500g loin fillet of venison; a small bunch of rosemary; 4 or 5 juniper berries; a whole head of garlic; 2 glasses of red wine or port; a glug or two of rapeseed oil; one heaped teaspoon of redcurrant jelly; salt and black pepper.

Method: Pre-heat the oven to around Gas mark 6 (200 C). Crush the juniper berries and chop finely with the rosemary, then mix with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spread the mixture thinly over a chopping board. Lightly brush the venison fillet with olive oil then roll in the herb/spice mixture so it's evenly coated. Place into a hot frying pan with a little oil (one that's ovenproof) and sear on all sides for five minutes. Add one glass of the wine or port and the garlic and place in the oven for around 10-12 minutes (to achieve medium). Remove from the oven and rest the venison for 5 minutes on a carving board. In the meantime, remove the garlic from its peel and mash it into the liquid. Turn up the heat under the pan and add the 2nd glass of wine or port. Reduce by half, then turn down the heat again and add the redcurrant jelly and a wee knob of butter. Carve across the venison fillet to create thin discs of meat and place on pre-heated serving plates. Add any juices from the carving board into the sauce and stir in well. Pour the sauce over the vension.
Serve with Cavalo Nero or Green Beans and the Dauphinoise shown below.

Celeriac & Tattie Dauphinoise

OK, I admit to being very neglectful of this foodblog of late. So to make amends I'm adding a few recipes. I'll kick off with a very rich and deliciously more-ish version of Dauphinoise - using 1/2 tatties and 1/2 celeriac, which is just coming into season. Try it - you'll love it!

Shopping List (serves 4): 1 small celeriac head; peeled and quartered; 1Kg of waxy potatoes, peeled and halved; 100g Parmesan or Pecorino cheese; 250ml of double cream; a small handful of fresh sage (very finely chopped); 1/2 clove of garlic (very finely chopped); salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Method: Pre-heat the oven to Gas Mark 4 (180 C). Slice the tatties and celeriac no more than about 5mm thick and boil them for 5 minutes before draining well and leaving to cool a little. Mix the cream, cheese, sage, garlic, salt and pepper in a shallow ovenproof dish and then lay the tatties/celeriac in the dish in layers, coating well in the mixture. Cover the dish with tin foil and cook for around 45 minutes. Remove the foil and cook for a further 15 minutes until golden brown, bubbling and beautifully tender. Serve with gamey meat, beef or chicken with some green beans and a big-hearted glass of wine. Magnifique!

Monday 13 April 2009

Dirkyburgers

The sunshine at the weekend encouraged us to get the BBQ out for the first time this year. And boy how we've missed it. We were over in Bridge of Weir seeing friends, so I made some of my burgers that always seem to go down a treat. They're quick and easy to make - just prepare in advance as an overnight chill in the fridge helps them to keep their shape and gives the flavours more time to get to know each other.

Shopping list for 10 medium-size burgers: 1Kg organic minced beef (Whitmuir is simply the best - it's what we stock at Earthy); one slice of day old bread; two good handfuls of chopped herbs of your choice (I tend to use basil and coriander, but thyme or parsley are good too - whatever is at its best and in season); a good handful (around 50g) grated parmesan; 1 tsp salt and a few twists of black pepper.

Method: Blitz the bread in a food processor, until well crumbed; add the herbs, salt, pepper and cheese and blitz again. Put the minced beef in a large bowl and add the herby breadcrumbs and mix really well with your hands. Form the burgers to the size you like them - you should get at least 10 good sized burgers from this mixture. Wrap individually in cling film to hold their shape and place in the fridge - preferably overnight. Get the BBQ nice and hot, then cook the burgers to your liking. Serve in a bun with condiments of your choice.

You can also try this recipe replacing the beef mince with with minced turkey, lamb or a mixture of veal and pork mince (great with lemon thyme). Chilli can also be added to the breadcrumb mix to add some zing. Go on, get your BBQ out, chill some rose and dig-in.

Friday 3 April 2009

Spanish Tortilla

This is an authentic Spanish Tortilla recipe - as taught to me by my good friends from Mardid, Carlos & Alberto. We had quite a few laughs the first time I tried it. There are literally thousands of different recipes for this seemingly simple dish, so try out some variations and additions - like using garlic-infused oil, or adding herbs, chargrilled peppers or chorizo to the mix. Slow cooking is essential, so it's not a quick dish to prepare - you simply can't rush a good tortilla. This recipe feeds 6 people as a main course, or double that if you're having a Spanish-themed meal with more tapas. Before you start, make sure you have a good non-stick pan - around 7"- 8" in diameter - and a large plate that's a good couple of inches wider.

Ingredients: 6 very fresh organic medium eggs; 3 medium-sized potatoes; 2 large onions; 200ml olive oil; salt and a good grind of black pepper.

Method: Finely slice the onions and peel and cube the potatoes into 1" x 1/2" chunks, drying off well in a dish towel. Pour the oil into a bowl and add the onions and potatoes, mixing them together well. It seems like a lot of oil, but you can collect the drained oil at the end of cooking and re-use it for future tortillas - the Spanish even have special ceramic pots for this purpose. Place a large frying pan on the hob, on a low heat and add the potatoes/onion mixture along with all the oil. The oil should cover the potatoes and onions - if it doesn't, add some more. Leave to cook for around 30-35 minutes. The heat should be low enough for the mixture not to brown. Test the potatoes with a sharp knife, and if they're cooked, remove the mixture from the pan, straining off the oil (reserving it). Leave to cool a little. In a seperate bowl lightly whisk the eggs with the salt and pepper. Then tip in the potatoes/onions and mix well together. Place a small drizzle of the reserved oil into an 7"- 8" non-stick frying pan and tip in the eggy mixture over a low heat. Leave for a good 5 minutes. Now the tricky (fun) bit. Remove the pan from the heat - best to do this next bit over the sink, just in case! Lay a large plate (at least 10" in diameter, so it overlaps the frying pan) upside down over the top of the pan. Holding the pan handle firmly with one hand and the plate in place with the other, spin the pan round quickly so the contents fall flat out from the pan onto the plate (and not into the sink or onto the floor). Place the pan back on the hob and carefully slide the tortilla, runny-side down, back into the pan, to cook the other side. This may take a little practise - hence the advice about spinning it over the sink. Once perfected though, it makes for far more impressive kitchen theatre than simply flipping pancakes. After 5 more minutes, repeat this process - it will be easier the 2nd time as the tortilla should be holding its shape better - and practise makes perfect. Keep repeating until the tortilla is solid to the touch in the centre and cooked through. Finally, flip the tortilla out onto a serving plate and leave to cool. Best served at room temperature, al-fresco, with a mixed salad, some crusty bread and a glass of chilled white Rioja. Salud!

Rhubarb Crumble

Just the word crumble makes me weak at the knees. It’s one of those puds that satisfies on every level - sweet, fruity, cakey and warming - total comfort food. In my book rhubarb, without doubt, makes the best crumble.

Ingredients (for 6 greedy people): 2lbs (900g) of organic rhubarb; 5oz (125g) unrefined caster sugar; grated rind and juice of one organic (unwaxed) blood orange; 4oz (150g) organic plain flour; 2oz (50g) jumbo oat flakes; 3oz (75g) butter.

Method: Wash the rhubarb and remove the bottom of the stems. Chop into large chunks and stew lightly in a saucepan for a couple of minutes. Add half the sugar to the rhubarb and continue to stew until just tender (but not mushy). Drain, reserving the juice, and place in the bottom of a large pie dish. Put the juices back on the heat, add the orange zest/juice and reduce until rich and syrupy and pour over the rhubarb. Blitz the flour, oatmeal, butter and remaining sugar in a processor until it forms coarse crumbs. Pour this over the rhubarb and pop in a pre-heated oven 180oC (gas mark 4) for 35-45 minutes until the top is golden brown. Serve with cream, Greek yoghurt or good, old-fashioned custard. Crumble heaven.

Hot smoked salmon quiche

A deliciously more-ish quiche that makes a great lunch or supper. Serve warm with some crusty bread and a big green salad. Serves 6.

Shopping list for the pastry: 8oz (225g) plain flour (white, wholemeal, spelt or a gluten-free pastry flour); 5oz (150g) butter; a small handful of finely grated parmesan; 1 tps finely grated lemon rind; 1 organic egg, a pinch of salt and a little milk (if required).

Shopping list for the filling: 1 pack of Hot Smoked Scottish Salmon; 6 Phantassie organic eggs; 200g (a small tub) of organic Creme Fraiche or double cream; a handful each of finely chopped fresh Sorrel and parmesan cheese; a few turns of freshly-ground black pepper.

Method: First of all make the pastry. Sieve the salt and flour into a bowl - If using a wholemeal flour, I suggest discarding the larger grains left in the sieve, as these can make the pastry heavy and too biscuity - it all depends on how you like your pastry. Add the grated lemon zest and parmesan and mix well. Dice the (cold) butter into small cubes and add to the flour. With cold hands, rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips for a few minutes, until it resembles course breadcrumbs. Beat the egg and add, mixing well through. This should form a ‘dough’. If it’s still too dry, add some milk, a dribble at a time, until the mixture comes together. Roll into a ball, seal with cling film and place in the fridge for at least 45 minutes. In the meantime, grease a 12” flan dish with a little melted butter, and cut a piece of parchment or baking paper large enough to place into the dish, covering the sides. Heat the oven to 180oC (gas mark 4).

When the dough has chilled, roll it out onto a lightly-floured worktop until around 5mm thick and large enough to fully line the flan dish, including the sides. When the pastry is in the dish, prick it with a fork all over, then cover it with the parchment paper and ‘weigh it down’ with some baking beans (dried beans are fine for this and can stored and re-used for future blind baking). Place the dish in the oven for 10-12 minutes, then remove the parchment paper/beans, brush the base of the pastry with a little more beaten egg (to seal the fork holes) and bake for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little. Turn the oven up to 200oC (gas mark 6).

To make the filling, break the eggs into a bowl and add the creme fraiche or cream and pepper, beating them together well with a whisk. Add the grated parmesan and herbs and mix well through. Remove the hot smoked salmon from its skin and flake over the base of the baked pastry. Pour over the egg mixture and place in the oven. After 5 minutes, turn the oven down again to 180oC (gas mark 4) and cook for a further 30-35 minutes, until the egg mixture is cooked through, but is still light and springy. When cooked, remove the quiche from the oven and leave to cool a little. Serve just warm, as this allows the flavours to mix well and it’s much tastier than hot.

Patricia’s wild garlic pesto

Patricia - my co-Director at Earthy, who also owns Phantassie Organic Farm in East Lothian - has masses of wild garlic growing in the woods on the farm. I've spent many a happy hour helping to collect them on warm spring afternoons - the air heavy with their scent. Garlic leaves have a subtle garlic taste when eaten raw - it's afterwards that you get the full-on hit of their odour! This is a quick and easy dish that’s full of spring freshness. The wild garlic is used in place of basil/garlic but you could use a mixture of fresh basil and garlic leaves, to make it even more subtle. You could also leave out the nuts or add black olives. This recipe is just a guide - experiment yourself to find one that you love.

Shopping List (enough for 4 servings): 2oz (50g) pack of Phantassie wild garlic leaves, washed and bigger stalks removed; 4oz (100g) pistachio or pinenuts; 2 oz (50g) finely grated parmesan; 4 tbs extra virgin olive oil; a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice; a couple of pinches of sea salt.

Method: Pop all of the ingredients into a food blender and blitz for a few seconds. Add more olive oil if the mixture is too dry. Pour over cooked pasta of your choice (linguine or spaghetti works well) and serve with some lovely organic leaves and a glass of full-bodied red wine.

Asparagus tips

Fresh asparagus is one of Spring’s great culinary delights. It’s well worth waiting for locally-grown varieties as it really needs to be eaten as quickly as possible after it’s been cut, so the less distance it’s travelled the better. Asparagus has a short growing season, so make the most of it while it’s around. Try chargrilling it and serving with a squeeze of lemon juice and some good olive oil. Or lightly steam it, ideally upright, so the stems get the brunt of the cooking. Then dip into softly boiled eggs. Alternatively, serve with a parma or serrano ham coat with this home made Hollandaise Sauce. A quick, simple and delicious lunch or light supper.

Shopping list (enough for 4 people):
2 organic eggs (yolks only); 4oz (100g) butter - diced into small cubes; a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice; 1 tbs cold water. A tsp or two of finely chopped sorrel (optional).

Method: Put the egg yolks in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water on a low heat. The water needs to be hot but not boiling. Add the water and whisk. Add the butter, one cube at a time, whisking as you go. If the sauce looks too thick, remove from the heat and add a little more water, whisking well. Finally add the lemon juice and sorrel (if using) and serve immediately.

Monday 23 February 2009

Dirk’s Smoked Fish Chowder

A rich, creamy soup that smacks of the sea and brings a smile to any grumpy face - even mine! It's quick and easy to make. You can use a mixture of smoked fish, but please try to avoid the obvious cod and haddock and they’re becoming scarce. It's also best to avoid heavily salted/smoked fish or that nasty yellow-dyed stuff, full of chemicals. As smoked fish contains a good amount of salt, it shouldn’t be necessary to add any - just taste for seasoning at the end and add some then if needed.

Shopping list for 4 people:
500g of mixed, lightly-smoked fish - try to get your hands of some pollack, trout, hot smoked salmon - or anything interesting and seasonal that your local fishmonger has available fresh - make sure it's thoroughly filleted with skin removed; 1 whole head of celery (including the leaves) or a whole fennel bulb; 1 large carrot; 1 large onion or 3 shallots; 1 medium leek; 1 large potato; 50g butter; 500ml of good fish stock; 500ml water; a good handful of fresh parsley or dill; 1 fat clove of garlic; 100ml double cream; a few good grindings of freshly black pepper.

Method:
Finely dice the vegetables and remove the herbs from their stalks and finely chop. Bring the stock to a gentle simmer mixed with the water. In a seperate soup pan, melt the butter and sweat the vegetables for 5-10 minutes over a gentle heat, until softened. Add the garlic and sweat for another few minutes before adding the warmed stock/water. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer for a further 10-12 minutes, before adding the fish (it will break up quicklly). After a couple more minutes, turn down the heat to the lowest setting and add the cream, stirring it in gently. Remove from the heat and add the chopped herbs and black pepper. Check the seasoning. Serve immediately.

The soup can be kept in the fridge (once cooled) in a sealed container for a couple of days. Alternatively you can freeze the base soup (without the fish, cream and herbs) for up to one month. Defrost thoroughly and boil gently for a good 5 minutes before adding the fish etc.

Serve with some warm, crusty bread by a campfire on the seashore.

Dirk’s version of Dawn’s Chestnut Soup

This is a great recipe given to me by our good friend Dawn - who's a great cook. I've modified it slightly, as I'm prone to do. It's a thick, winter soup that's hearty and flavoursome. A little goes a long way. Don't overcook it otherwise you'll be parping for days to come!

Shopping list:
300g fresh chestnuts or 250g vacuum packed or tinned, roasted chestnuts; 1 small head of celery; 2 medium carrots; 1 medium parsnip; 1 large onion; 1 medium leek; 50g butter; 75ml Marsala, Madiera or Medium Sweet Sherry; 1 litre of vegetable stock; a handful each of fresh thyme and fresh parsley; salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Method:
First of all, prepare the chestnuts. Roast the fresh chestnuts in a moderate oven for around 10 mins. When cool enough to handle, peel (including the inner membrane). Discard any brown chestnuts. The chestnuts can be a bit fiddly to peel, so alternatively use vacuum packed or tinned. Roughly chop the chestnuts. Dice the vegetables and remove the herbs from their stalks and finely chop.

In a soup pan, melt the butter and sweat the chopped onion, thinly-sliced leek, diced celery (with leaves), diced carrots and parsnip and the chopped thyme for a good 15 minutes over a low heat, until softened. Add the Marsala and leave for a minute to burn off the alcohol, then add the chopped chestnuts and vegetable stock. Season to taste. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for a further 15 minutes. Add a good handful of chopped fresh parsley at the end, the cool a little and liquidise.

Storage and serving:
The soup can be kept in the fridge (once cooled) in a sealed container for 2-3 days. Alternatively it freezes well and can be kept frozen for up to 2 months. Defrost thoroughly and boil gently for a good 5 minutes, stirring often to avoid sticking to the pan - it’s a thick soup!

Serve with some warm, pumpkin bread and a sparkler on Halloween or Guy Fawkes Night.

Dirk's Thai Curry

The recipe here is for a chicken curry, but pescotareans like my good mate Paul can make this with fish or vegetables instead (try it with carrot, butternut squash, green beans and cauliflower - or any good firm fish / shellfish you like). This recipe begins with making a Thai Curry paste. There’s a lot of wee things to buy, but you can make it in bulk and freeze the rest for later. It should keep for a couple of months in an average home freezer or about a week in the fridge.

Shopping list for the curry paste:
Fresh ginger - a 2” piece about the thickness of your thumb - peeled and finely chopped; 3 fat cloves of garlic -peeled and finely chopped; a good handful of fresh coriander leaves and their stems - washed and chopped; 1 tsp each of whole coriander seeds and cumin seeds; 1 shoot of fresh lemon grass, finely chopped; a good handful of dried shrimps (try a Chinese supermarket for these); 2 tbs of Thai fish sauce; 1 tbs light soy sauce; 1 tsp sugar; 3 medium mild red chillis and 1 small hot green chilli - deseeded and finely chopped; 1 large or 3 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped; 2 tbs of sunflower oil.

Method:
Soak the dried shrimps in warm (not hot) water for about 10 minutes. Then remove from the water and finely chop. Dry-fry the cumin and coriander seeds for a minute in a hot, non-stick frying pan - just toss them around a bit to stop them from burning. Remove the pan and leave to cool a little. You should really be able to smell the seeds now. Bung all of the ingredients together into a food processor (except the oil) and blitz for about a minute. Then add 2 tablespoons of the sunflower oil and mix in well. Chill in the fridge for an hour or two to give the flavours a chance to get to know each other. (You can freeze it at this stage too).

Shopping list for the curry:
1 chicken breast or 2 chicken thighs per person (or of course a good portion of mixed veg or fish per person); 1 block of condensed coconut milk or 1 tin of coconut milk; 1/2 a large shallot per person; 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil.

Method:
Slice the chicken pieces so you get around 8~10 slices per person. If you're using chicken thighs, remove from the bone. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the pan over a medium to high heat and sear the chicken. Do this in batches if you need to. Add the finely sliced shallot and cook until golden and soft. (If using vegetables in place of chicken, chop them roughly and lightly saute them in the pan now.) Put the chicken back in the pan and add one large tablespoon of the curry paste per 2 people. Dissolve the coconut block in water and add to the pan, or pour in the coconut milk, if using. Bring the pan to a light boil, cover and simmer very gently on a low heat, for around 15 minutes - until the chicken (or veg) is fully cooked through. If you're using fish, add it after the coconut milk and cook for just a few minutes.

Serve with basmati rice or noodles and some stir-fried pak choi.

Paula's Sweetcorn Fritters with Tomato & Harissa Sauce

Paula makes these great Sweetcorn Fritters about once a week. She serves it with a Roasted Tomato & Harissa sauce - it works perfectly.

Shopping list for 4 large fritters:
200g tinned sweetcorn; 75g medium/course polenta; 25g gram (chickpea) flour; 1 organic egg; 25g butter, melted; tsp or 2 of ground cumin; 75ml each of milk & creme friache; salt & pepper; half tsp bicarbonate of soda; generous handful of chopped, fresh coriander; some sunflower oil for frying.

Method:
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, polenta, cumin, coriander and seasonings. Beat the egg. melted butter, milk and creme fraiche together; pout over the dry ingredients and mix well (it should be like a very thick cake mix). Add the sweetcorn and mix well again. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and when hot spoon in the mixture to form 4 large fritters. Fry until golden brown on both sides and serve immediately with the Tomato & Harissa sauce on the side.

Tomato & Harissa Sauce:
Ingredients: 1Kg small plum or cherry tomatoes; olive oil; salt, pepper; a pinch of sugar; 1 tsp harissa.

Method:
Halve the tomatoes and place in a large baking tray - cut side up. Drizzle with the olive oil, a generous sprinkling of course sea salt, a good grinding of pepper and a tsp of sugar (it offsets the acidity of the tomatoes and brings out their natural sweetness). Roast in a pre-heated moderate oven (gas mark 5-6; 180-200 degrees C). When cooked, pour the tomato mixture through a siv over a bowl, using a spoon to mush it down and extract the very last of those gorgeous juices. Discard the remianing dry pulp left in the siv. Add the harissa to the tomato sauce and serve hot with the sweetcorn fritters (or anything else you fancy).

Thursday 12 February 2009

Patricia's Celeriac Gratin

Patricia is one of my co-Directors at Earthy, and she's a great cook - especially talented with veg - as an organic vegetable grower, I suppose she should be! We had a Christmas Preview evening at Earthy and she brought along a trio of veggie dishes (2 of which I've included here) to accompany a massive organic turkey from Whitmuir Organics. Appreciative customers and hungry Earthlings all got stuck in to this fantastic fayre. First up is Patricia's celeriac gratin, which was magic. It's probably the ugliest vegetable on the planet, but what it lacks in looks, it makes up for in taste.

Shopping list for 6-8 people:
2 medium celeriac; 50g butter; 500ml (1 pint) of Bechemal sauce (I've added a recipe for this below, just in case); a few tablespoons of fresh breadcrumbs.

Method:
Peel the celeriac and slice to around 1/2” thick. Boil for 2-3 minutes in water and drain. Melt the butter in a large frying pan and fry the celeriac for a couple of minutes. Place the celeriac in layers in a baking dish and pour over the bechamel sauce. Finally top with the fresh breadcrumbs and pop into a warm oven for 30-40 minutes until golden and crisp on top.

Bechamel Sauce - Pour 500ml of milk into a saucepan and add one, peeled and halved small onion, one bay leaf and a little grated nutmeg, some salt and white pepper. Warm the milk thoroughly on a low heat (but don’t boil it). Set aside and leave to stand for 5 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse. Melt 50g butter in another saucepan, take off the heat and add 2 tablespoons of white flour and stir well together. Take the bay leaf and onion out of the warmed milk and discard, then pour the infused milk into the butter/flour mixture. Place back on the heat and gently bring to the boil, stirring or whisking lightly as it heats. The sauce should thicken well. If it’s too runny pour a little out into a mixing bowl, leave to cool a little and add some more flour to form a smooth paste, then add this to back into the bechemal sauce and whisk well. When the sauce is smooth and thick, but still pourable, remove from the heat.

Patricia's Honey Mustard Parsnips

These are better than any parsnips I've ever cooked. Patricia certainly knows her veg!

Shopping list for 6-8 people:
6-8 parsnips, peeled and quartered lengthways - removing the ‘woody’ centres; 2 tablespoons of olive oil; 2 tablespoons of whole grain mustard; 2 tablespoons of clear honey.

Method:
Boil the parsnips in lightly salted water for 5 minutes, then drain. In a bowl, whisk together the olive oil, mustard, honey and some salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the parsnips into the bowl and mix thoroughly until well coated, then place into a roasting tray and cook in a pre-heated moderate oven (gas mark 6; 200C) for around 45 minutes, until deliciously tender.

Spicy Vegetarian Bolognese

I tried for ages to come up with a veggie bolognese sauce that tasted just as good (if not better) than my meat one. I finally settled on the one shown below, which I hope all you veggies and carnivores alike will relish. The dried porcini mushrooms are vital for giving it that earthy, depth of flavour - sadly lacking from most vegetarian bolognese sauces I've tasted (and made). The sherry or marsala works well with this also adding to the depth of flavour. The chilli just helps to give it an extra bit of zing.

Shopping list:
2 medium red onions; 2 medium carrots; 3 celery stalks (with leaves); 1kg winter squash or sweet potato; 150g chestnut or flat mushrooms; 50g dried mushrooms - preferably porcini; 1 litre jar of passata (or 2 tins of plum tomatoes); a big squirt of tomato puree; one small glass sherry or marsala (optional); a big pinch of dried oregano; 3 fat cloves of garlic, crushed; 1 hot fresh chilli (optional); salt and black pepper; a big glug of olive oil.

Method:
Soak the dried mushrooms in warm water until plumped up - strain, reserving the liquor. Finely dice all of the vegetables, including the strained, rehydrated mushrooms. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pan - sautee the onions, celery and carrots over a medium heat for 10 minutes until the onions are soft, but not browned. Add the garlic, chilli, dried oregano, squash and mushrooms and cook for a further 10 minutes. Turn up the heat, then pour in the sherry or marsala and cook until most of it has evaporated, then add the passata or tomatoes, the puree and around half of the mushroom liquor. Stir well together and season with salt and black pepper. Put a lid on the pan, turn down the heat and simmer gently for about an hour until the bolognese is thick and unctuous. You can do this on the hob or in a moderate oven.

Good served with wholewheat spaghetti and grated parmesan, or mixed through cooked penne or fusilli, popped into an oven proof dish, topped with cheese and finished-off in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. The sauce also freezes well.

Monday 9 February 2009

Dirky's Moroccan Honeyed Chicken-Licken

Not an original recipe - based on one from a cookbook and adapted over the years. I make this slightly different every time, but here's the basis. Tweak the spices, quantities and have fun experimenting and modifying it yourself. It's a sweet, sticky, honeyed chicken dish from Morocco and it tastes divine. Best served with couscous, spiced up with a little chilli and flavoured with masses of fresh leafy herbs (coriander, mint, basil - take your pick or mix together). The toasted almonds give it an extra nutty, cruchy dimension, and are well worth adding.

Shopping list for 4 people:
Either a whole chicken (around 2kg) or chicken joints - anything from breasts to wings will work - just make sure it's a good free-ranger; 1 litre jar of passata; 4 large onions; 2 tsp cumin powder; 1 tsp ground cinnamon; a knob of fresh ginger; 3 or 4 cloves of garlic; 4-6 tbs runny honey (dependent on how sweet you like it); 1 medium hot red chilli (or more to taste); a good pinch of saffron; 1 tsp orange flower water; sunflower oil; salt and pepper and a big handful each of toasted, flaked almonds and coriander to finish with a flourish.

Method:
Joint the chicken into about 8-10 pieces and lightly 'brown' in the sunflower oil in a big heavy-based casserole pan. Drain and remove. Peel and thickly slice the onions and fry in the same pan until softened, but not discoloured. Add the garlic and chilli (both finely chopped) to the pan and then the cumin, finely chopped (or grated) ginger and let the flavours mingle and sweat for a couple of minutes. Add the passata and bring to the boil, stirring well. Season well. Now put the chicken back into the pan and simmer for around 30-40 minutes, until cooked through. Remove the chicken pieces from the pan and keep them warm. Build up the heat in the pan and reduce the liquor by half. Add the honey and continue to reduce until 'jam-like'. Dissolve the saffron threads in a little hot water, then add to the 'jam' before adding the chicken back in and heating thoroughly through. Just before serving, add the orange flower water.

Serve on top of some deliciously herbed and spiced couscous, scatter the toasted almonds and chopped coriander on top and dig-in.

Sunday 8 February 2009

Organic Beef and Beer Casserole

A hearty, simple, welcoming casserole to warm your cockles on a cold winter evening. It freezes well, so make a double quantity and keep some stocked in your freezer for when you’re too tired to cook, but still fancy some delicious comfort food. You’ll be glad you did. I use Black Isle organic Porter - it’s an unctuous dark, bitter-sweet stout that works wonderfully well with the beef - but any good, dark beer will do - just don’t use lager.

Shopping list for 4 people: 500g pack of Whitmuir organic shoulder steak, 3 large onions, peeled and sliced, 250g of shallots or small pickling onions, 4 cloves of crushed garlic, 1 bottle of Black Isle Porter, 3 bay leaves, a large pinch of dried, mixed herbs, a glug of Sunflower oil, salt & black pepper.

Method: Brown the meat well in the oil in a heavy, oven-proof casserole pot; remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, while you gently simmer the onions in the same oil, until softened. Add the garlic and herbs, and saute gently for a couple of minutes, making sure that the garlic does not catch or burn. Return the beef to the pot and then turn up the heat and add the porter. Bring to the boil, season well, then place the lid on the pot firmly and put into a pre-heated oven at 160oC (gas mark 3) for around 2 hours.

With half an hour to go, peel the shallots or small onions and blanche (pop into boiling water for around a minute). Drain and add to the stew. Serve with celeriac & potato mash (enriched with some creamed horseradish, if you like it) and seasonal greens.

If you’re in need of total comfort food, you could also make some herb dumplings to go with it. Mix 50g of dried suet with 100g of self-raising flour, a good pinch of salt and a handful of finely chopped, fresh herbs (I normally use thyme or lemon thyme with parsley and a wee hint of rosemary). Mix with just enough cold water to form a dough. Flour your hands and roll the dough into golf-ball size dumplings and lay them gently onto the top of your casserole. Put them in at the same time as the shallots.

Go on, try it. You know you want some.

Dirk's Onion Marmalade (or Onion Confit if you're having a posh dinner party).....

This is an easy-to-make, tasty side-dish that goes fantastically well with cold meats like ham, chicken or pork. It's basically a chutney, so you can add all sorts of different flavours and ingredients - dependent on the season and what you're having it with. Just try it and enjoy. This recipe makes 2 jam jars' worth, so you can enjoy one lot with the meal and save another in the fridge for lunches, sandwiches or midnight feasts....enjoy!

Ingredients:
2Kg onions - peeled and sliced (white, red, whatever's best and most available); 100g raw cane sugar; 50g butter; 4 tbs balsamic vinegar; 2 tbs Creme de Cassis (a great thing to have at the back of your store cupboard - not cheap but a little goes a long way, and a wee dodd is diddylicious with some fizz - for a Kir Royale); a couple of good wedges of orange skin - use a tattie peeler - a teaspoon of salt and a dozen good grinds of black pepper.

Method: Melt the butter in a big, heavy pan and add the onions. Saute gently for 10 mins until softened and translucent. Add the other ingedients and stir well. Bring gently to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer very slowly with the pan lid off for around 1.5 hrs until the onions are very soft. You can serve warm or leave to cool and jar up. Stores well in the fridge for a couple of months - but mine never ever lasts more than a couple of weeks as we gorge ourselves on it.

Vegetarian Falafals

I was round at friends yesterday and made these little fellas to take along. They'e quick and easy to make - best done a day before you cook them - and very tasty. You can also make a 'job lot' and freeze some - a great standy-by for when you can't be bothered to cook, but want something delicious and healthy too....

Ingredients:
3 x 400g tins of mixed beans (e.g. cannellini/berlotti/kidney/chickpeas)
Around 50g (two heaped tablespoons) of gram flour (chickpea flour)
Dried cumin seeds, coriander seeds, mustard seeds - one teaspoon of each
One fresh red chilli - de-seeded and finely chopped
Big bunch or coriander and parsley - roughly chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg - beaten

Method:
Heat the seeds in a heavy, dry pan until they release their flavour (don't burn them though!). Then grind in a pestle & mortar. Drain and thoroughly rinse the beans/pulses. Put all the ingredients into a blender or processor and blitz until well mixed. Add more gram flour if too sticky. Take one tablespoon of the mixture at a time, and with floured hands form into a small burger, rolling it in gram flour. Place the formed burgers onto a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and refrigerate, preferably overnight. You can also freeze them at this point.

To cook, simply fry in hot sunflower oil until warm all the way through. (you could also deep fry them if you like). Serve with some mayonnaise spiced-up with a good dollop of harissa and a little creme fraise.